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"The term “bloomers”
originated with Amelia Bloomer from which this style of garment gets
its name. She was prompted to wear the bloomers of the time because
cycling had become very popular and women wanted to maintain the
modesty that existed during that period."
Just read that on your website - um, sorry, but very wrong!
Check these websites:
https://www.jolique.com/undergarments/bloomers%20_and_bicycles.htm
https://www.nps.gov/wori/bloomer.htm
For one thing the "Bloomer"-wearing period was c.1851 and bicycles did
not evolve for popular use until the 1890s (as your illustration shows)!
A Bloomer history nit-picker,
S. Yeoman
Nova Scotia Museum / Costume Society of Nova Scotia
Here is some interesting
reading:
Most think that
Amelia Bloomer and her infamous bloomers in the mid-19th cenury was the
one who developed the BLOOMERS. American reformer Amelia Bloomer
(1818-94) was born in Homer, New York. She lectured and wrote to
support the temperance movement and women's sufferage, two inter-linked
issues. She is best knowm for energetic promotion beginning in 1848 of
the "bloomer" costume. Bloomer in fact did not device bloomers, but
merely endorse them as a practical alternative for the restrictive
women's fashions of the era. Bloomers were in fact originally devised
by Elizabeth Smith Miller. Although ultimately unsuccessful, they were
an important step in the development of modern practical clothing.
Fashion's Revolution since
the late 18th Century: Beauty's Evolution in Female Fashion
An American reader has
provided HBC an interesting assessment of woman's fashions and clothing
styles over time. It is a nicely-done student essay. HBC is extensively
used for a range of school projects and we like to post some of the
better essays both for the informaion developed as well as to show how
young people view fashions. The author raises some very interesting
questions which we hope to eventually persue on our site.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*
How true it is that the
general style of the dress is a sign of the times, and an indication of
the morals of society. In the last century or two, female fashion has
taken a dramatic turn. Beauty in the 20th century consists of reference
to an outward appearance and one's sexual attractiveness to the
opposite sex and society in general. Nancy Baker once described beauty
as "intangible personal qualities" about a person and not based upon
one's looks. Although this is quite true to those who appreciate a
person for who they are and not what the appearance is, most of the
world since the late-1800s refers to beauty of a person by their looks
and styles. As Arthur Marwick once said, "the beautiful are these who
are immediately exciting to almost all of the opposite sex." As sad as
this statement might be, it is still none the less true in today's
society. A woman’s standards today are based on television and
magazines. Women are compared to the unattainable air-brushed goddesses
you see modeling the new fashion. Beauty has become a goal for most
women in today's society rather than an attributed aspect of
themselves.
Throughout history beauty has
always been based on certain aspects of a person from wealth to age,
but for the first time beauty is being based upon and associated with
one's sexuality. No longer is beauty based on a person and their
character but rather on a sense of [one's] 'sexual self worth' (Source
2, pg.11). The most recent generations of women have even resorted the
deadly cosmetic surgeries to attain a sense of beauty based upon what
society classifies it as at the time. Sometimes beauty is found in the
narrowness of our waist or the body of our hair, never even glancing at
the person themselves. Ever since the 1830’s each generation of women
and men have had to struggle against their society's own beauty myth.
Today women have accomplished
almost near equality to men but with the equality they still bear the
stress of appearances. Men never really had to fight to vote or be
treated as an equal, they simply co-existed, but women had to fight for
their equality all the time also maintaining their desirable aspect in
society. As our society flourishes and cosmetics are mass produced
along with new clothing and new revolutionary surgeries to take off the
years of worry and struggle, women must face the inevitable challenge
of meeting the goal of what our society believes a woman should look
like. (Source 2)
"It is very little to me to
have the right to vote, to own property, etcetera, if I may not keep my
body, and its uses, in my absolute right." Lucy Stone stated this in
1855 and yet today women still struggle with the same idea as she did.
We have accomplished so much in such a short time yet we have also
accomplished so little. We have established the right to vote and own
land, yet we cannot overcome the pressure of society's influence over
us.
Even today women cannot see
their own beauty because their sight is distorted from the commercials
and an advertisement telling us that thin is beautiful and that perfect
skin and hair qualifies you as something special in life. Beauty should
be based upon each person's individual characteristics and instead
beauty is a feature women want and men desire those women who attain
it. Today's society has based their ideas of beauty on sexual selection
and just like our economy it all depends on politics (source 2, pg 12).
The human species are mammals,
simply animals. Yet we are the only mammals to choose our mates
according to our ever changing perception of "beauty". [HBC note: Kate
makes an interesting point here. We are not sure, however, that this is
a correct statement. It raises the question as to just what beauty is.
It may well be that beauty is the genetic residue of selection
processes. There are many animals that have mating patterns in which
physical characteristics make certain individuals more attractive
mating patterns.]
Back in ancient times of
20,000 B.C.E, women were adored and worshiped yet these women or
goddesses as they were referred to be older women who were associated
with knowledge and power. These older women would age without fear, age
made them more attractive because time only increased their beauty, for
why should it take it away? Some tribes such as the Nigerian Wodaabes,
had men compete for beauty and women would judge. The roles have been
switched and now men judge a woman’s beauty but the qualities of beauty
have been severely distorted. The myth of beauty is said to be based
upon one's intimacy and life, basically celebrating a woman (source 2,
pg. 13), when in fact the myth is made up of politics and sexual
repression towards women. This myth is not about a woman at all but
simply about a man’s desires and wants and his power over women (source
2, pg.13). Women are simply the victims to a man and what he considers
desirable at that point in history. (Source 2)
For every generation the
beauty myth is slightly altered but the pressure never lessened. [HBC
note: Kate makes an important point nd is quite right that concepts of
beauty have varied over time. In some eras slender figures were deemed
appealing and in other eras quite buxom figures were more appealing.
There are, however, some facial characteristics for example which have
remained remarkably constant over time.] The qualities in women which
are considered beautiful are only reflections of what the period and
time considers desirable for a woman. If you think about it this myth
of a woman's beauty is actually describing one's behavior and not
appearance (source 2, pg. 14) This struggle for women all over the
world could be overcome by unifying women and overcoming these
stereotypes but unfortunately this competition for beauty and jealousy
among women and resentment towards those considered desirable and
beautiful makes the women of the world a divided group. Unlike history
where the goddesses in a tribe were considered better with age, today
the aging process is considered 'unbeautiful' and a shameful aspect of
a woman. Youth is considered beautiful on today's scales and until
recent years virginity was also thought of as a beautiful thing. Again
resentment among women only grows and the old fear the new. The purpose
of this paper is to describe the evolution of the word beauty and its
impact upon female fashion and thought throughout the late 1800s until
the present. (Source 2)
During the Industrial
Revolution in the 1800s, production increased and thereby destroying
class values that separated the rich from the poor. Many new inventions
were created such as the sewing machine which made clothing easier to
produce and cheaper to buy since the labor was so inexpendive. Clothes
became cheaply available to the lower classes. New color dyes were
invented and new techniques were now used. These new ideas and aspects
for creating clothes made them cheep and available to almost all the
public. Now the lower classes could afford fancy clothes. The upper
classes were no longer separated from the poor by their fancy
wardrobes. This infuriated the nobles for now they were not distinctly
able to be recognized in public but it was adopted with open arms by
the lower classes for now they were taking a step towards equality with
the upper classes. During this time, industrial economies meant
enormous wealth to its society. Mothers were now able to leave their
homes and had more time on their hands instead of sitting home all week
making clothes. Before these inventions were created clothing was very
carefully made and was also very time consuming, therefore the lower
classes could not afford to pay for such a task. The sewing machine was
created in 1790 but would take a while before it hit societies and
began to play a major role. (Source 5)
"Off the rack" clothes which
were made ready to go for the first time were being made. Now
fashionable wear became available to the public and not just those of
noble blood. Clothing was used to reflect different social classes but
now almost all social classes could afford to wear the fancy clothing,
which was once so unattainable. European cultures used to regulate who
was aloud to wear what, as early as the 16th century the commoners were
forbidden to dress like the nobles, and even in the Victorian era
clothing was considered a sign of wealth and not of ones rank. It was
also a woman's duty to make herself beautiful without the help of
cosmetics for during that time cosmetics were thought to be a sign of a
prostitute. Regardless it seemed as though commoners were never aloud
to improve their status from government restrictions to lack of money.
But now they were given the chance to improve their lives. Fashionable
clothing and luxuries were now available to middle and working classes.
Another unique invention included interchangeable parts. This allowed
machines to break and without replacing the entire machine, a simple
part could be replaced. Also the coal-fired steam engine increased
production making the prices for clothing drop even lower. (Source 5)
During the early-18th century
female fashion seemed to reflect the romantic attitude. (source 1, pg.
221) Corsets were always worn with pulleys attached so they could be
pulled to the tightest point. Skirts resembled the shape of a bell and
normally reached the length of the floor. Sleeves were puffed into
[?ringlets] and usually sank over the woman’s wrists. Colorful bonnets
replaced the everyday use of hats and they were decorated with bows,
feathers and flowers. The most popular colors during this time were
lilac and rise. During the 1820s a women strived for the modest look.
One would usually wear her hair in drooping ringlets and ears were
hidden under bonnets, mostly during the 1830s. (Source 5, pg 221)
During this time men wore very
simple outfits consisting of a blue or brown waist coat and trousers
along with a nice pair of shoes. Women also wore long floor length
dresses with narrow waists and a high neck. Nearly all clothing was
hand sewn until 1846 when the sewing machine took a major role in
society’s industry. And then again in 1865 the steam powered engine was
created and put into everyday uses. Tailors along with the dress market
sky rocketed and soon [?"shopping centers"] were created for the
public. Now instead of production taking place in one's cellar or
attic, factories were now opened and more people were employed to help
run the machine and production. (Source 5, pg 228)
Slowly women's fashion began
to change toward the middle of the 1800s, the neck lines began to drop
and clothing became more elaborate. For the first time fashion became
very competitive among women (source 5, pg. 234) in the 1840s dresses
were bell shaped and the bottom normally had a four meter circumference
created by the petticoat underneath the dress. Sometimes a woman’s
dress was so wide they would knock over things when they would up and
around. Towards the late 1850s dresses consisted of tight upper halves
and bell bottoms, but not nearly as large as they had been in the
1840s. During these times when women desired to alter their appearances
cosmetically they would suck on lead pencils, sip vinegar, oil her
hair, or even risk half blinding herself with belladonna to achieve the
effect of mysterious woman and shattered health (source 5, pg. 218).
Soon women's clothing began to
once again alter, this time they began to dress in a masculine manner
by slimming the wait line and wearing their hair in a curly manner.
(Source 5)
Towards the end of the 1800s,
women once again embraced femininity by wearing long, flowing gowns
that went straight down to the floor with the rear end accentuated with
much padding. Once again the roles were reversed and hats now replaced
bonnets. Hair was worn half up with curled ringlets hanging down. And
the necks on blouses and dresses were usually worn high. But still the
men's fashion remained plain and simple consisting of straight pants
along with a wait coat (Source 4, ph. 192).
Around the early 1870s a
woman's gown was poofed and bustled in the back to create the image of
having a large rear end, for this was considered womanly and beautiful
at the time. Women would wear enhancers tied to their waist which were
made of wood and straw. A woman's everyday wear would consist of a
dress with madding and a corset underneath accompanied with a hat and
shawl. Towards the beginning of the 1880s the gowns were smoothed down
and tightly fitted to resemble a more laid back look. This was now
considered the true womanly figure and a beautiful one at that. And
towards the end of the century women began to wear riding clothes with
white collars and men's hats along with heavy sports coats.
Women began to embrace a more
masculine look along with leather boots for comfort and everyday wear
rather than going for what looked best. The new image of the womanly
figure consisted of big shoulders and a tiny waist along with a large
hat. (Source 5)
During this time the corset
also played an extremely large role for women who wished to achieve the
desirable look. Corsets have appeared as early in history as Minoan
times in 1700 B.C. but now they were making a major come back. Though
the shapes of corsets changed a lot during this time, it never the less
decreased the value of a corset and its importance. It helped women
achieve the image of perfection. It was sometimes large and other times
small, even sometimes would accentuate a woman's curves and other times
focus on enhancing her bust, but each time creating an ideal body for
the woman. The point of the corset was to help emphasize the woman and
her figure. Corsets not only were used to show perfection but also as a
way of showing off one’s wealth by showing what fabric and detailed
work you could afford. Then towards the end of the century the corsets
lost some of its charm for the look of a woman was changing and now
stressed upon a more manly look.
In the beginning of the 20th
century, towards the beginning of the 1920s, fashion once again took a
turn towards femininity and difference. In the early 1900's women were
described as "modern" and usually had typical traits such as long hair.
But a new fashion and look arose. Women who dared to be different in
the twenties were referred to as flappers. A flapper had short hair
which would be bobbed up and much more than the usual dose of make-up
on, usually accentuating the rouged cheeks and natural features. They
would wear baggy dresses with high hemlines that revealed their legs
and arms, stockings rolled up high and turned down hoses. Skirts were
worn short and breasts were even taped down to create the image of this
new revolutionized symbol in fashion history.
For the first time in history,
advertisements had a great influence on the female fashion industry
during the twenties along with propaganda; the film industry also
played a great role in influencing the styles during the time. This new
look symbolized a childlike and virginal women, an innocent woman. This
style stressed the importance of a woman's natural structure so the
image of what a woman should look like with the help of corsets was not
stressed, and corsets were not worn as much and if so not as tightly to
define their desired shape. They did however wish to cover up their
flaws without accentuating themselves and implying a false image of a
woman's body. They went for a natural and earthy look but covered up
any indications of their flaws. (Source 7)
During the age of the
flappers, the rule most women lived by was that a woman’s curves were
found unfashionable; they wished to achieve a look of 'flatness' more
or less. Also with the new hair style being short and the previous
being long hair, women had a need for change and when the barbers
failed to create this new image for them, beauty salons all over the
country began to flourish. In the twenties alone, over two hundred and
fifty million dollars were spent on perms. And then the late-1920s and
early-1930s began to balance out the new and old looks. The look became
more realistic and wholesome. Stars such as Katherine Hepburn helped
set the new setting for fashion with her wholesome and natural looks in
the movies. The new look contained tall girls with broad shoulders and
narrow hips, hemlines were dropped and waist lines returned to then
original state before the 20s.
But before this new fashion
had much time to settle in, World War II caused great restrictions in
the fashion industry. Productions of clothing were limited and fashion
not stressed. In the forties women dresses in a practical and masculine
manner often referred to as the 'Utility Lines'. Shoulders were padded
and skirts or dresses were knee length. There was also a shortage of
stockings so most women and girls began wearing trousers. At the end of
the war, fashion once again returned but in a different form. The image
of a perfect woman once again returned; there were padded hips,
corseted waists, and a surge of femininity. (Source 7)
From the 1920s until the late
40s, women underwent a large variety or styles and fashions; from a
very narrow and accessorized look, to a manly look, and then again to a
perfect image look. For once make-up for women was not frowned upon but
rather thought of as an enjoyable and expressive act. Many cosmetic
lines flourished during this time, and make-up was now not only
regarded for theatrical uses. Young girls used make-up to appear
attractive and older, while older women used it to cover up any flaws
and conceal anything they didn’t wish to be seen. This was also a time
considered as a 'tyranny of corsets' because their popularity also went
up and down over this time.
Some women at the turn of the
century even underwent surgeries to remove their lower ribs to receive
the desired waistline of eighteen inches. And by mid century women did
not wish to achieve perfection but to simply use was they had and to
show it off. This period in history was a giant step for women, for
once they had the option to express themselves through fashion,
accessories, and make-up; a choice which was very new to them for they
had choices to choose from. (Source 1 and 7))
The early 1950s fashions were
described as very womanly, similar to the late-40s, but with more
radical and colorful patterns. Clothes were very neat and clean, and
new clothes were used only for special events or occasions. The women’s
look was advertised as an 'at home' look which was very low key. Waist
lines were very fitted and then the skirts would bellow out creating a
very womanly shape. Hair was worn up or short, and to help enhance the
womanly look, undergarments were worn. Women would use such things as
matching gloves, belts, purses and even men’s coats to dress their
outfits up or down for different occasions. Everyday wear included
girdles and padded bras (aka falsies), which were considered beauty
builders. Even with bathing suits skin was not extremely prevalent,
cleavage was not shown and hips were not revealed.
Into the early sixties,
fashions slightly altered with the help of the first lady, Jackie
Kennedy's influence. Patterns were now replaced by solid colors and
large buttons decorated (one or two at the most) coats and shirts that
ranged up to two inches in diameter. Sleeves were worn at the three
quarter length and the in style was based around the idea of
simplicity, which at the time was considered very elegant. (Source 3)
In the early 1960s along with
the new simplicity look, which was worn by mostly older women in
working careers, Capri's pants became quite popular, and stretch pants
replaced the corsets and girdles. High boots were worn which gave the
wearer a smoother appearance. And bathing suits were beginning to be
designed in two piece sets with big and noticeable patterns. Hair was
usually worn loose and even down.
The 60s fashions were
considers a conservative 'all- American girl' style. Buttoned shirts
were worn, buttoned to the top along with wool skirts along with lace
pantyhose or fishnets. This new look was considered lady like and
respectable for young girls. Mini skirts slowly started to become more
popular and tie dye clothes became very 'hip' among the youth of the
nation. Tie die was thought to be clever and artsy, usually accompanied
by jeans. This new look would establish the new settings of fashion for
the seventies. (Source 3)
In the 1970s, fashion was a
very laid back style. It consisted of tie dye shirts, hip hugger jeans,
boots and hair was worn in afros, sometimes accompanied by a knitted
hat. Printed blouses were worn and bell bottom pants, which were tight
and stretch like to the knee and then flared out at the bottom, with
stylish belts and comfortable moccasins. The working women usually
would wear a look that was silk and sexy styles with their blouses
unbuttoned for the first few buttons. Midriff was shown and shirt necks
were lower than they had ever been. Pants were made to make women
appear tiny and fragile, as a woman is typically stereotyped. Coats
were worn quite big, closely resembling a man’' jacket. Pant suits were
very common in the working areas and older women, but during leisure
time among teenagers all over the United States, a typical outfit
consisted of a loose patterned blouse, short shorts and thigh high
boots with a head band for your hair.
Overall, age or state of a
woman didn't matter because either the suits, bell bottoms, or the silk
blouses were designed to have a very womanly effect of the female
fashion industry during the seventies. (Source 3)
Into the early 1980s,
fashion’s direction changed. A century ago at this time women were
copying their fashion after the male image. They broadened their
shoulders and slimmed their waists. Now men seem to be copying the
women’s fashion. Men's clothing started becoming much lighter and in
many varieties of color. Women’s clothing on the other hand also
changed yet once again. Varieties of textures were put together in
outfits, as almost of a layering technique when getting dressed. Colors
and fabrics became much more casual as well as the overall look of
women. The idea of comfort was once again explored in a stylish fashion
for the time. Women would wear blazers and jackets, and a popular
fabric was corduroy. Women explored a new look of professionalism. They
would wear boots with three quarter length skirts along with a blouse
and blazer. To dress themselves up or decorate themselves they would or
take away belts, hats, or purses. These fashions of the eighties were
referred to as the 'fashions [that] were finally comfortable'. (Source
3, pg 193)
From the beginning of the 20th
century and even earlier on we have gone to sophistication and
conservative fashion to a flaunting society, in which young girls are
taught to show off their bodies for this is what our society thinks is
beautiful. Yes we have made a large step; we went from wearing girdles
and corsets to achieve the look of desired perfection, now we wear what
we want. But do we really? Do women truly wish to wear tight pants,
loads of make-up, gel in our hair, and to even go to the extremes of
cosmetic surgery? Women today chose styles based up on influential
televisions programs and picture magazines which tell us what a woman
should look like. These do not once mention anything in a woman deeper
than their surface. For women today, keeping with society’s style gives
us a sense of self confidence, a feeling of fitting in. we have a need
or a desire to go with the current and never against it. Back during
the fifties women dresses very neat and clean, and only a special event
was treated with new apparel and accessories. Today everything everyday
has to be flashy and beautiful. Our aspects of beauty have been
materialized over this century. (Source 3)
Today 'beauty' directly
contradicts women in America’s real situation. In the United States
over $33 billion a year are spent of diet substances, over $20 billion
a year are spent on cosmetic, and over $300 million a year is spent on
cosmetic surgeries. Women pride themselves on how far we have
'supposedly' come over the last decades, when in fact we have only
trapped ourselves in a corner. Women of today are trapped in a society
where beauty is defined by Barbie dolls children play with; a tall
American blonde with blue eyes and skinny with the right bust size.
When is actuality if Barbie was an actual women, she would have to walk
on all fours because her disproportionate body couldn’t hold her. The
desire for beauty is destroy women today and tearing us as a community
apart for the competition and jealousy among one another is too great.
Today's generation of women need to be able to see, for we regret to
realize we are simply blind. (Source 2)
Our society has programmed our
minds to think that a woman’s face is the worth of her fortune. Today
women represent 52 percent of the population yet we cannot accomplish
to overcome our materialistic and shallow views of the world around us.
Cosmetics and plastic
surgeries and thrived over the last few decades, yet women today are no
more satisfied with themselves. Women have worked too hard and too long
to let the desires of men to destroy us. Young girls grow up today in a
society that demands perfection. A young girl must be skinny. A young
girl must be smart. A young girl must be athletic. And most important,
a young girl must be beautiful. For if a young girl does not attain
these requirements, what should make her worth while. Girls who don't
achieve these standards have no contributions to our society. Right?
Yet on the other hand, young boys are aloud to play. Young boys do not
need good grades. Young boys do not need to be desirable. Young boys do
not need to fear weight or reputations. [HBC note: Kate makes a very
important point here.
There are significant gender
differences concerning societal expectations. She is certainly correct
that in terms of fashion and appearance that girls are put under more
pressure than boys. Of course there are other ways in which boys are
subjected to more pressure than girls.] This is the exact thinking
which will only destroy us as a people and a community. Today when
beauty is mentioned, almost everyone’s first thought is a woman's
outward appearance and their sexual attractiveness. Arthur Marwick once
defined beauty as "the beautiful are those who are immediately exciting
to almost all of the opposite sex". Should this quote be considered
correct? A woman's beauty and value should be based upon what the
opposite first thinks of our appearance? (Source 6)
Women's fashion has
dramatically changed over the century and all throughout history.
Beauty has been based upon one's intelligence or her status in her
community but never stressed upon her looks as they are in today's
society. Today's women strive for perfection. They wake each morning,
spending countless hours on their hair and make-up then on their outfit
for the day. When new fashions arrive, we rush to the stores and spend
countless dollars on designer clothes, every few minutes reapplying
gloss on our lips to make our smiles only more attractive. Yet all
during this time we are thinking of other women in our lives, the ones
who seem perfect. We curse them for having what we want. We distance
ourselves from them out of pure fear of self degradation.
Today women think of their
places in the world and pride themselves on the steps we have taken,
all the time failing to realize how far we must still go and how much
time and work we sacrifice, while we strive for the ultimate
unattainable perfection. "A truly beautiful woman makes the best of her
physical assets, but more importantly, she also radiates a personal
quality which is in itself attractive." - Nancy Baker (Source 6)
Sources Not yet available.
Author: Kate